Lieutenant Columbo

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Adrian Carsini in his cellar, the one place he is happy
Adrian Carsini in his cellar, the one place he is happy “Any Old Port in a Storm”, 1973 · NBCUniversal
3×02 · Season 3 · 1973

Any Old Port in a Storm

Russian title: Старый портвейн · Russian version

A winemaker kills his half-brother for threatening to sell the vineyard, and locks the body in his own wine cellar. Widely considered the best episode of the series, and the one where Columbo most clearly likes the man he is catching.

Editor’s rating — 10 out of 10.

Number
19 of 69
Aired
October 7, 1973
Running time
91 min
Director
Leo Penn
Writer
Larry Cohen / Stanley Ralph Ross
Music
Dick DeBenedictis

The case

The killer
Donald Pleasence as Adrian Carsini
The victim
Gary Conway as Rick Carsini
Guest cast
Donald Pleasence, Robert Walden, Gary Conway, Joyce Jillson, Robert Ellenstein, Julie Harris

Columbo is an inverted mystery: the murder opens the film and the killer is known from the first minutes. What you are watching for is how he proves it — see how the character works.

Donald Pleasence
Donald Pleasence — Adrian Carsini
A scene from the episode. Fancy Dinner with a Murderer Official Columbo channel · YouTube

The murder

Adrian Carsini makes wine, and it is the only thing about him that is not a performance. The estate loses money; his palate is world class; his half-brother Ric, who owns the place, intends to sell it to a corporation that will fill the bottles with something drinkable and profitable.

The murder is almost domestic. Carsini strikes him during the argument, then locks the body in the airtight wine cellar and leaves for a conference in New York. Without air conditioning, over a hot weekend, the cellar does what he needs it to do — and, as he well knows, destroys the entire vintage stored inside it. He sacrifices the thing he loves most to hide the killing.

He then stages a diving accident, dumping the body offshore with scuba gear, so that a man who could not swim well appears to have drowned doing something reckless. The plan is thorough and, crucially, it costs Carsini something. Almost no other Columbo murderer pays a price up front.

The estate loses money and Adrian Carsini does not care, because the wine is the only thing about him that is not a performance. His half-brother Ric owns the place and intends to sell it to a corporation that will fill the bottles with something profitable.

The argument turns physical and Carsini kills him, then locks the body in the airtight wine cellar and leaves for a conference in New York.

The cellar does what he needs over a hot weekend without air conditioning — and destroys the entire vintage stored in it. He sacrifices the thing he loves most to hide the killing, which is a price almost no other Columbo murderer pays.

A bottle worth more than a house
A bottle worth more than a house “Any Old Port in a Storm”, 1973 · NBCUniversal

How Columbo gets him

The relationship between Carsini and Columbo is the reason people rank this episode first. The lieutenant knows nothing about wine and says so; the winemaker, unable to resist an audience with genuine curiosity, teaches him. By the last act Columbo can hold a glass properly, and the education has been entirely mutual — each has been studying the other the whole time.

The evidence trail runs through temperature. A cellar without cooling over a heatwave ruins wine; ruined wine has to be disposed of; disposal leaves records, deliveries, complaints. Columbo follows the loss of the vintage rather than the loss of the man.

There is also the question of the diving accident, which requires the victim to have been a diver, and the small matter of a corked bottle that should not have been opened. The lieutenant's questions are all about the estate, never about the death.

The relationship is why this episode tops most lists. Columbo knows nothing about wine and says so; Carsini, unable to resist genuine curiosity, teaches him. By the last act the lieutenant can hold a glass properly, and the education has been mutual.

The evidence runs through temperature. A cellar without cooling over a heatwave ruins wine; ruined wine must be disposed of; disposal leaves deliveries, invoices and complaints. Columbo follows the loss of the vintage rather than the loss of the man.

There is also the diving accident, which requires a victim who could dive, and a corked bottle that should never have been opened.

The ending. The Brilliant Ending of 'Any Old Port in a Storm' Official Columbo channel · YouTube
The Carsini brothers: one makes the wine, the other counts the money
The Carsini brothers: one makes the wine, the other counts the money “Any Old Port in a Storm”, 1973 · NBCUniversal
A blind tasting: the one thing Carsini never gets wrong
A blind tasting: the one thing Carsini never gets wrong “Any Old Port in a Storm”, 1973 · NBCUniversal
The final trap is a glass of wine. Columbo serves Carsini a bottle from the ruined batch; the winemaker tastes it, recognises immediately that it has been heat-damaged, and in doing so proves he knows the cellar failed — which he could only know if he was there when it did.

Worth knowing

Verdict

If the series has a masterpiece, this is it. The plot is sound, but what elevates it is the mutual respect: Carsini is a murderer and a monstrous snob, and by the end you understand exactly what he was protecting and why he thought it was worth a life.

Falk plays the arrest as a genuine sadness. He has spent ninety minutes learning from this man, and the last thing he does is offer him a drink.

If the series has a masterpiece, this is it. The plot is sound, but what lifts it is mutual respect: Carsini is a murderer and a monstrous snob, and by the end you understand exactly what he was protecting.

Falk plays the arrest as genuine sadness. He has spent ninety minutes learning from this man, and the last thing he does is offer him a drink.

An ending like no other: the killer and the lieutenant drink together
An ending like no other: the killer and the lieutenant drink together “Any Old Port in a Storm”, 1973 · NBCUniversal

What the people who made it said

Peter Falk
The Tonight Show with Johnny Carson, 5 October 1973

Falk went on Carson two days before this film premiered and explained what he carefully keeps out of the character. The exchange is about why Columbo works: not because he plays the fool, but because he is busy with his own thought.

“There's a difference between being dumb, playing being dumb and being distracted. If you play it being a chump, there's no dignity there.”

Quotes are in the speaker’s own words — from a transcript of the recording, or from the printed source. Players open at the right minute. Everything is shortened; the full version is in the source.

Familiar faces

Actors who turn up in the series more than once — sometimes in very different parts.

Cast data from TMDB, including uncredited bit parts. All the familiar faces →