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Any Old Port in a Storm
Russian title: Старый портвейн · Russian version
A winemaker kills his half-brother for threatening to sell the vineyard, and locks the body in his own wine cellar. Widely considered the best episode of the series, and the one where Columbo most clearly likes the man he is catching.
Editor’s rating — 10 out of 10.
- Number
- 19 of 69
- Aired
- October 7, 1973
- Running time
- 91 min
- Director
- Leo Penn
- Writer
- Larry Cohen / Stanley Ralph Ross
- Music
- Dick DeBenedictis
The case
- The killer
- Donald Pleasence as Adrian Carsini
- The victim
- Gary Conway as Rick Carsini
- Guest cast
- Donald Pleasence, Robert Walden, Gary Conway, Joyce Jillson, Robert Ellenstein, Julie Harris
Columbo is an inverted mystery: the murder opens the film and the killer is known from the first minutes. What you are watching for is how he proves it — see how the character works.

The murder
Adrian Carsini makes wine, and it is the only thing about him that is not a performance. The estate loses money; his palate is world class; his half-brother Ric, who owns the place, intends to sell it to a corporation that will fill the bottles with something drinkable and profitable.
The murder is almost domestic. Carsini strikes him during the argument, then locks the body in the airtight wine cellar and leaves for a conference in New York. Without air conditioning, over a hot weekend, the cellar does what he needs it to do — and, as he well knows, destroys the entire vintage stored inside it. He sacrifices the thing he loves most to hide the killing.
He then stages a diving accident, dumping the body offshore with scuba gear, so that a man who could not swim well appears to have drowned doing something reckless. The plan is thorough and, crucially, it costs Carsini something. Almost no other Columbo murderer pays a price up front.
The estate loses money and Adrian Carsini does not care, because the wine is the only thing about him that is not a performance. His half-brother Ric owns the place and intends to sell it to a corporation that will fill the bottles with something profitable.
The argument turns physical and Carsini kills him, then locks the body in the airtight wine cellar and leaves for a conference in New York.
The cellar does what he needs over a hot weekend without air conditioning — and destroys the entire vintage stored in it. He sacrifices the thing he loves most to hide the killing, which is a price almost no other Columbo murderer pays.

How Columbo gets him
The relationship between Carsini and Columbo is the reason people rank this episode first. The lieutenant knows nothing about wine and says so; the winemaker, unable to resist an audience with genuine curiosity, teaches him. By the last act Columbo can hold a glass properly, and the education has been entirely mutual — each has been studying the other the whole time.
The evidence trail runs through temperature. A cellar without cooling over a heatwave ruins wine; ruined wine has to be disposed of; disposal leaves records, deliveries, complaints. Columbo follows the loss of the vintage rather than the loss of the man.
There is also the question of the diving accident, which requires the victim to have been a diver, and the small matter of a corked bottle that should not have been opened. The lieutenant's questions are all about the estate, never about the death.
The relationship is why this episode tops most lists. Columbo knows nothing about wine and says so; Carsini, unable to resist genuine curiosity, teaches him. By the last act the lieutenant can hold a glass properly, and the education has been mutual.
The evidence runs through temperature. A cellar without cooling over a heatwave ruins wine; ruined wine must be disposed of; disposal leaves deliveries, invoices and complaints. Columbo follows the loss of the vintage rather than the loss of the man.
There is also the diving accident, which requires a victim who could dive, and a corked bottle that should never have been opened.


Worth knowing
- Donald Pleasence's performance is the most quoted in the series; he plays a snob who is also, unmistakably, an artist.
- The last scene — the two of them sharing a bottle before the arrest, Columbo pouring correctly for the first time — is regularly voted the best moment of the entire run.
- The episode is one of very few where the murderer's motive is neither money nor self-preservation but the preservation of a standard.
- Donald Pleasence plays a snob who is also, unmistakably, an artist — the performance is the most quoted in the series.
- The final scene, in which the two share a bottle before the arrest and Columbo pours correctly for the first time, is regularly voted the best moment of the entire run.
- Broadcast in October 1973.
Verdict
If the series has a masterpiece, this is it. The plot is sound, but what elevates it is the mutual respect: Carsini is a murderer and a monstrous snob, and by the end you understand exactly what he was protecting and why he thought it was worth a life.
Falk plays the arrest as a genuine sadness. He has spent ninety minutes learning from this man, and the last thing he does is offer him a drink.
If the series has a masterpiece, this is it. The plot is sound, but what lifts it is mutual respect: Carsini is a murderer and a monstrous snob, and by the end you understand exactly what he was protecting.
Falk plays the arrest as genuine sadness. He has spent ninety minutes learning from this man, and the last thing he does is offer him a drink.

What the people who made it said
Falk went on Carson two days before this film premiered and explained what he carefully keeps out of the character. The exchange is about why Columbo works: not because he plays the fool, but because he is busy with his own thought.
“There's a difference between being dumb, playing being dumb and being distracted. If you play it being a chump, there's no dignity there.”
Quotes are in the speaker’s own words — from a transcript of the recording, or from the printed source. Players open at the right minute. Everything is shortened; the full version is in the source.
Familiar faces
Actors who turn up in the series more than once — sometimes in very different parts.
- Vito Scotti as Maitre D' 6 episodes also in Candidate for Crime, Swan Song, Negative Reaction, Identity Crisis, Murder, A Self Portrait
- Bob Harks as Bar Patron 4 episodes also in A Stitch in Crime, A Case of Immunity, Now You See Him
- Robert Donner as Drunk 3 episodes also in Caution: Murder Can Be Hazardous to Your Health, Undercover
- Regis Cordic as Lewis 2 episodes also in Candidate for Crime
- John McCann as Officer 2 episodes also in The Conspirators
- George Gaynes as Frenchman 2 episodes also in Etude in Black
- Walker Edmiston as Auctioneer 2 episodes also in Dagger of the Mind
Cast data from TMDB, including uncredited bit parts. All the familiar faces →